Fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier was controversial yesterday at his 30th anniversary show during fashion week in Paris. Amidst all the size 0 models, Gaultier included one size 20 woman, wearing a sexy black corset. Some writers have said that this is a positive development for the fashion industry, opening our eyes to different images of beauty.
I frankly think it is a gimmick, more of a joke at the expense of those wanting to ban “underweight” models from runways. Everyone knows that size 20 is not going to be the norm for fashion models, so this is just a one-time gag. It would have been a serious move to actually USE a size 12 or size 14 model, but no way — that would freak out the industry. Here, everyone can play with the concept in a cute way, but not really do anything about it.
In other news, CNN, in a attempt to add more diversity to their broadcast, has signed a prominent African-American to read the news on Friday evening.
Wendy — when I say “freak show” I know I’m being a little exploitative myself, but it isn’t far from the truth here. I’m not worried about insulting women who are over size 20, because they would be the first ones to tell you that they DON’T expect a big call-out for models of their size. Like other weomen, they usually imagine a thinner version of themselves. They would be very happy to see a size 14 model, who could become their new “ideal.” But hardly anyone can become a size 0, so it just creates an illusion that will never be a reality for anyone, and screws everyone up — women because of their obesssion with body image and many MEN, who can only get it up with a woman who is size 2.
Neil, you know I love you. And I know you are very supportive of women of various sizes. But I think you’re off base above.
For one, the word “freakshow” did kind of insult me. Some women ARE naturally thin and a size zero. Some women are naturally big, and much bigger than a size 20. Neither should be considered “freakish.” What makes fashion shows freakish is that only ONE kind of woman is represented, instead of a variety of women of different shapes and sizes–as, in fact, THAT is who will be wearing clothes.
Applying the word “freak” to women in any context (other than “she’s a supafreak, supafreak”) is really hurtful. It is especially hurtful when applied to women’s bodies.
Now, I WILL give you that Gaultier’s stunt gave off the FEEL of “freakshow.” “Step right up and see the fat lady!” Which I think was entirely intentional. This was not a paean to larger women. This was deliberatly done to make the woman look stupid and freakish, to point out the “ridiculousness” of fat women in fashion. Why do I think this? Well, the rest of the models were showing sportswear.
If Gaultier had wanted to make a point that large women had a place in fashion, she would have been wearing the collection all the other models were wearing–making her an equal to them. Instead, she was sent out in a ridiculous, costume-like monstrosity that intentionally accented her body in a way that would make it look extra distorted and ridiculous. Regardless of what the spin might be, it was obviously meant to be a cruel joke, to make a snobby designer’s point.
Also, you said:
[Women over size 20] would be very happy to see a size 14 model, who could become their new “ideal.”
Why do women need to have any ideal other than what they are? The fact that there are more size 14s than size 0s doesn’t matter. Do you really think what is ideal for us is to aspire to ANY other shape that isn’t ours? I can tell you right now, even if a woman personally wants to lose weight or whatever, when it comes down to it, women don’t want any kind of “ideal” to aspire to. They want to be loved and respected as they are.
And finally, to the reader who said, Size twenty or size zero – I can only shake my head at the world of fashion. I want to see what real clothes look like on real women, I want to say this:
At one point in my life, I was a size zero. At another point in my life, I was a size 22. I didn’t realize at either of those points I’d ceased to exist.
I like to see this kind of thing happening, but when I look in a magazine, though it was be great to see models that are nearer to a double digit size, I don’t want to see cottage cheese.
This coming from a girl with a dimpled tuckus
Miss Syl — I apologize if I offended anyone. There was no intention. I’ll take it out if you think it is hurtful. You realize I was saying this model was being used as a “freak show” — because it was supposed to be shocking at having a size 20+ model walking down the runway. I’m not saying SHE is a freak, only that her size is being used as a gimmick.
I approach this topic with an air of realism, not idealism. Most models are not going to be size 20+. And the more I talk to women, the more I realize they are the toughest critics of other women. They do no want to really see “themselves” on the runway, like the last commenter said. They can see the cottage cheese on themselves. They do want to see an idealized form of themselves, just as we want our movie stars to look like George Clooney. That’s reality and to just say everyone should be happy with themselves is true, but in our thin-obsessed society, it’s just ridiculous to make believe that it is all going to disappear. But there is clearly nothing wrong with having a beautiful size 12 model. Most women can still fantasize about the beauty and buy the clothes, thinking they will look as good — and fashion designers can still make money, but the image being presented isn’t a sick one. And many of those size 0 models do look like they are sick, which makes it a freak show.
goodness. i was transfixed by all these comments and almost missed the challenge on my shallow evening treat of survivor. as someone who falls in that true average size, i must admit that my first thought when i saw this picture was, “she has to be so uncomfortable. she is probably hot because of all the lights and the excitement of it all and her thighs have to be rubbing together in a way that is uncomfortable. and that is something mr. designer man would not have thought about. but i would have.” there it has been said. i do not feel that is shallow, that is truth.
i agree that women are their worst critics…putting a size 10 or 12 model on the runway would have been something else wouldn’t it?
(i also want to admit that i enjoy learning a new side of you whenever i stop by. my first glimpse of this photo had me cringing thinking “what is he gonna say about this?” but i appreciate the points you made here.)
What women are you talking to that want to see an idealized version of themselves on the runway?… Women I talk to would like to see normal women of all shapes and sizes on the runway.
On the Project Runway show, the designers complained the most about a challenge in which they had to design for what is deceptively called a Plus Sized woman. They were trying to be PC in the interviews, but basically said that they hated designing for regular fat people, and that they never did it before and don’t plan to after.
Hey Neil,
Thanks for making me your blog crush. Now, how does this work? Are there some kind of obligatory breast photos that I have to e-mail you for it?
Uh, Tara, we are supposed to discuss this privately. I’m trying to present myself as a real sensitive male who is very much into “women’s issues” and would never suggest exploiting my “sisters in bloghood.”
But, just out of curiosity, what type of rack do you have?
Neil: of course you don’t have to take it out, silly man. Just a difference of opinion. That’s what blogs are for–for everyone to express themselves.
As to the rest, I’m not sure where you’re getting your facts about what most women prefer. I guess I can’t speak for “all women,” or even “most women.” But I don’t think that anyone can, unless they take a scientifically measured poll. All I can speak for with confidenc is myself and I can say that in fact I don’t particularly care to see an “idealized form of myself” and I would be perfectly happy to see someone who looked like me walking down the runway if the clothes made her look appealing.
In fact, THAT would make me want to BUY the clothes…which hell, isn’t that the POINT? (Or at least, shouldn’t it be…to sell the clothes to people who will wear them?)
Seeing that someone with a body nothing like mine (a supposed “perfect” body) makes the clothes look perfect…well, duh, no surprise there. Sure a flawless person will make the clothing look flawless. Doesn’t say bupkes about the clothes and their worth, ya know?
plain jane-if you think that, than it shows you know nothing about eating disorders at all. they stem from many issues (mainly involving control) and can’t be blamed on the fashion industry alone. and like cover your mouth pointed out. being that fat is also very unhealthy. it’s ok to tell people to stop doing all kinds of things that are harmful to them yet it is not acceptable to tell a fat person they are killing themselves because it’s insensitive, sounds PC to me….
Lux, are you nuts? “Eating disorders stem from many issues, mainly involving control”???
Just how uninformed can one be? People who have eating disorders, and not all large or small people do,may have a multitude of health and emotional issues, control having nothing to do with that. That is just so judgemental and ignorant a statement. And no, it’s actually not OK to tell people “to stop doing all kinds of things” unless they’re doing something illegal or harmful to others.
I think that most people need to realize that designers want thin models because clothing fits better on thinner women, that is a matter of fact (the same can be said for male models–but no one ever mentions that now do they?) In the end this is a runway show meant to sell the season’s line and models are chosen as one would choose the best clothing hangers for a collection represented on a rack in a showroom.
Unfortunately many designers are mixing their design and tailoring skills with their whispy political beliefs and it leaves us all wondering what the fuck it all means. In the end, I don’t think even Mr. Gaultier knew what he meant by what he did. Remember, he is one of Madonna’s (Queen of Shock Value) top designers.
I can tell you this: that “poor” fat girl wearing the undies was paid well and is most likely more proud of her skin and bones than most of us reading your blog and for that we mustn’t feel sorry.
I’ve always heard that argument that clothing fits better on size 0 models, but I’m not sure why this would be true — unless it was clothes for size 0 models.
if these designers are so good, why can’t they make clothes that look good on women of all sizes, not just on size 0 models?
That’s one surly-looking model.
she isn’t a size 20.. unless she is really short…
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i think we have to see the fashion world as a BUISINESS
the reason most models are size 0, is because clothes look better on skinny women
and for the size of the average model to change, you would have to change a lot of things about the whole fashion industry.
marilyn monroe is considered one of the most beautiful women EVER!! I bet you didnt know she was a size 14. with these skinny models today the fashion designers are really just sending their clothing down the run way on hangers! bravo to this woman for having the guts to show the world that the is beautiful!!! I wish I would have been walking behind her!
You know, here’s an amazing thought… maybe the eating disorders at your daughters school should not be blamed on runway models, but instead seen as a backlash against all the disgusting obesity in our every day lives.